The installation of the new dishwasher is the reverse of removing the old one with a few extra steps to ensure a leak proof and secure job You should also check the hot and cold water isolators to make sure that they have been upgraded and have built in check vales installed. Current building regulations require a check valve so that foul water cannot be accidentally sucked back into the clean water supply which you will drink from:

1. If you haven’t yet unpacked the new appliance move it nearby to the opening where it is to be installed to help you avoid damage to the floor surface.
2. Remove the packaging and clear it out of the way and then untangle the power cable and discharge/waste pipe which are usually coiled up to the rear of the unit.
3. Locate the new filler hose (check to make sure that the rubber washer is in place) which is usually located inside the unit and connect it to the male inlet connector located on the back of the appliance. NOTE: Most washers unless specifically ordered come with only one hose that will connect it to the cold water supply. If your old unit had a cold and hot water connection I would advise capping off the old hot water pipe if it is not to be used. The reason is that most  isolators are prone to leaks after many years. If they leak with the appliance in place it could cause water damage for a long period before it gets noticed. You can purchase a cap with a rubber washer to screw onto the end of the isolator.
4. With the appliance pushed up close to the opening leaving enough room for you to slide into and make the connections.
5. You will need to connect the waste outlet to the same location that the old waste pipe was connected to. Usually connected under the kitchen basin or nearby. If the old appliance waste pipe was connected to a hose connector which had a hose clamp installed onto it make sure the clamp is transferred to the end of the new hose and is tightened.
6. Connect the fill pipe (do not cross thread and check to MAKE SURE that the rubber washer is in place or suffer damage like this) to the cold water isolator and make sure that both ends are tightened. If you have purchased a twin feed appliance you will also need to attach the hot water feed pipe too. Also make sure not to over tighten the connections at either end as the nuts are almost always made of nylon these days and will split and leak if overtightened. Connections should be snug.
7. Before testing your connections make sure that you have a washing up bowl or other way to catch a bit of water if you have a leak or have to disconnect one of the hoses. Also make sue you have some absorbent rags to help if you have a leak. I use old bath towels as rags on a day-to-day basis. They are really absorbent!
8. Once the connections are made it is advisable to turn the cold water supply on SLOWLY and check for leaks. If required do the same thing for the hot water supply. If you have no leaks then move on to the next step. If you have a leak then stop, check your connections and that you have the rubber washers installed and check that connectors are tight and not cross threaded. Once the leak is sorted move on to the next step.
9. You may now connect the waste pipe and the electrical connection and get ready to test the unit before pushing it into the opening.
10. With a final check to make sure all packaging has been removed from inside the unit, all connections made and the water turned on it’s now time to turn the appliance on and test one more time for leaks.
11. Start a wash cycle so that the unit fills up with water. Once the unit is filled with water it’s time to stop the cycle and then set it to drain. You’ll have to read the instructions for each model to find out how to do this.
12. I usually run a couple of fill and empty cycles before I’m satisfied that there are no leakage issues. It’s now time to push the unit into the opening.
13. You must ensure that as you push the unit into the opening that none of the connection hoses or power cable are pinched in between the appliance and the surrounding carcass. You could remove the plinth from below the cabinets to aid you in reaching the hoses and cables and keeping them out of harms way. Don’t skip this step!
14. Slowly work the appliance back inside the empty space until the front of the unit is lined up with the existing cupboard doors. Depending on the type of appliance will depend on what you have to do next.
15. FREE STANDING: If your appliance is free standing then all that is required is to is to put your level on the top and screw the legs up or down to level the appliance. You should also put a level on the front of the unit to make sure that the unit is sitting level from front to back as well as side to side. This unit is ready to use.
16. FULLY INTEGRATED: This type of unit has a full sized door fitted to it so it is completely hidden behind the door panel. The controls are mounted on the top edge of the door and when closed the unit looks like any other cupboard door. These units come with a template to help you find the attachment points and locate the spots to put the screws into place. I always advise a dry run before you start drilling or screwing bits to the panel. Mark everything with a marker and then hold the door in place by hand to judge whether your measurements are correct. If correct carry on and mount your door panel. Check that the door lines up with the doors on either side and that the gap between the doors is the same on both side and parallel from top to bottom. You may have to make minor adjustments with the leveling legs.
17. PARTIALLY INTEGRATED: This unit has a door that mounts onto the front appliance cover but the control panel is still on display. The door panel is mounted using a series of brackets so that the door is attached without any screws showing.  These units come with a template to help you find the attachment points and locate the spots to put the screws into place. I always advise a dry run before you start drilling or screwing bits to the panel. Mark everything with a marker and then hold the door in place by hand to judge whether your measurements are correct. If correct carry on and mount your door panel. Check that the door lines up with the doors on either side and that the gap between the doors is the same on both side and parallel from top to bottom. You may have to make minor adjustments with the leveling legs.
18. If your unit is of the integrated type of unit there is one more step to undertake. The appliance must be securley mounted to the underside of the countertop or worksurface and in most cases there is a spot on the inside of the the dishwasher to mount a side screw through to the carcuses on either side. The installation manual will be the deciding factor as to where the screws go. Please check the manual for your model.

That’s it! You should have a fully or partially integrated dishwasher or a freestanding dishwasher installed, leak free and ready for years of service.

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