Advantis Home Maintenance Ltd. t/a AppliancesFitQuick » CP12

Carpet Fitter Creates Gas Chamber

admin — Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:05 +0000

DANGER OF THE WEEK AWARD

Bad Carpet Fitters

I was getting to think that nothing much surprises me anymore when it comes to illegal, unsafe and dangerous situations that we uncover on a daily basis. I thought I had seen it all until earlier this week. So when I was called in to service some gas fires at a small accountancy firm I was surprised to find the gas fire shown below in the state it was in. I am used to unqualified builders and kitchen fitters creating unsafe situations but a carpet fitter! This carpet fitter should really stick to carpet fitting. No REALLY mate! Stop screwing with things you don’t understand!

[Show as slideshow]

When we perform safety checks on a wall mounted gas fire we have to turn off the gas supply and remove the fire from the wall to inspect the area behind the closure plate. We perform a flue flow test to make sure the flue is working and not leaking into other parts of the building and we physically get a look up into the flue. We look for things like loose brickwork that may have fallen down, birds which may have fallen in, old flue damper plates which should not be there but might have been left in place and general signs that the bricks and mortar are in good or bad shape. We then take the appropriate steps depending on what we find.

In the case of this fire as soon as we looked underneath the fire the carpet running up behind the unit was clearly visible. My apprentice who only has eight weeks experience could see there was a problem. I pointed it out to the business owner and continued to work. We cut back the carpet and underlayment, completed our safety checks and put the fire back in place. I was about to undertake a mini tightness test (checking the internal gas fittings of the fire with a gas sniffer) when my detector started buzzing to call my attention to a gas leak. I checked around the fire and couldn’t detect anything so as I worked my way across the room towards the gas restrictor (the point where the gas pipe comes up through the floor and runs towards the fire) the meter was showing a large leak. Interestingly enough, we hadn’t touched the restrictor as we had the gas turned off at the metre.

Of course the culprit had been the carpet fitter. He would have had to remove the fire in order to carpet up behind it. Once he finished laying the carpet he would have tried to re-connect the fire before moving on to the next room. Unfortunately he left three VERY dangerous faults:

He left a small gas leak that was small enough that you couldn’t sniff it but was very real. The sniffer picked it up immediately when it was switched on and about one meter away from the actual leak. The carpet fitter had finished the job almost a year ago. Long time to have a gas leak in your office!
The other BIG issue is that when the carpet was wrapped up behind the fire it blocked up the air relief hole at the bottom of the closure plate. This particular fire requires that the relief hole is open for proper operation.
NO ONE! I mean NO ONE should be so stupid as to thinking that carpet should be wrapped up BEHIND a gas fire. Hot fire. Flammable carpet!

So the lesson here is simple. If you have someone on your property to do work and you can see that they’ll have to touch something related to gas, electrics or plumbing. Ask them HOW they will be getting that portion of the work completed that they are unqualified to undertake. If they shrug their shoulders or give you that tooth sucking far away look call someone else. Even if someone has completed work for you which you feel may be unsafe call Gas Safe Register for gas related work and NIC EIC for electric related work.

This Flue Could Cause Death

admin — Sat, 29 Aug 2009 06:00:06 +0000

DANGER OF THE WEEK AWARD

Bad – Boiler Installers

While picking up some electrical bits the other day my supplier, who is also a client of ours, asked me about his high energy bills. Specifically his gas bill seemed higher than usual. I suggested a Gas Safety Check also known as a CP12 to determine whether or not there was a leak in some pipe work or perhaps a badly burning boiler, fire or cooker.

[Show as slideshow]

The good news was that there were no leaks or other gas escapes. The bad news was that the high gas bills were due to an old boiler which had been installed without a programmer or room stat of any sort. When I had asked about a room thermostat I was told that the installers had told the home owner that this particular could not have a room thermostat. What a load of rubbish! I showed her the installation booklet and there it was on page 7.

The worse news however was that during the safety check I noticed that the flue had been installed directly underneath two air bricks and at a forty five degree angle to another one beside it. To make matters even worse, the air bricks filtered directly back into the bedroom where the boiler was located. The photo isn’t clear but the dark line just under the shelf is a screened air brick inside the cupboard.

With the flue less than the required 300mm beneath the opening in the fabric of the building flue gas could be sucked back into the building. The situation is more likely than one would think. If a wind were blowing at the front of this house a negative pressure could be generated at the back of the property causing flue gases to be sucked back into the closet and into the bedroom.

At this point in time the fix for this is to seal the air bricks. The situation however should never have happened in the first place. Clearly these installers were cowboys who didn’t care about the homeowners or their safety.

Improper Flue Termination

admin — Sat, 29 Nov 2008 06:00:18 +0000

DANGER OF THE WEEK AWARD

Bad Gas Fitters

Another week, another group of photos to decide upon and another cowboy flue installation.

I would like to say that I’m surprised by this flue installation but sadly I am not. I drive by around six of these a day near my own home, and in one case 30 or so illegally installed flues (Read that story) on one property owned and managed by the Oldham Council.

[Show as slideshow]

Clearly this installer couldn’t be bothered to purchase and sand & cement so as to brick up when he was finished smashing a hole through the wall of this rental flat above our local laundry service.

One ponders how a flue surrounded by a hole large for the boiler to fall through could pass a CP12 or Landlord Gas Safety Check every year. This flue has been in for five years and apparently I am the FIRST person to question the quality of the work!?!?

Danger of the Week Award – Cowboy Gas Fitter

admin — Sat, 17 May 2008 06:35:12 +0000

I was called out to undertake a Landlord Gas Safety Check or CP12 as they are also called. I entered the property and found a hob as the only gas appliance. I wnet outside and connected my manometer and tested the gas pipe work. The let by and tightness tested were perfect. Hoping for an early departure I next connected my manometer to one of the burner jest on the hob to check standing and working pressure. When I turned the burner on to full there was nothing. No hissing, no gas. Oh, oh!

[Show as slideshow]

The tenant was close by and starting saying that the landlord had told them that there was a knob (isolator valve) under the hob they had to turn. I was suspicious already so after a call the letting agent removed the built in oven and indeed saw the isolator. As I turned the isolator valve on I could here the gas escaping so immediately turned it off. As I stuck my head underneath the hob pictures one and two show you what I saw.

Not was the hob never connected to the gas pipe but the gas pipe was never capped which also means it was never tested for leakage when caped. According to the owner, who I spoke with a few minutes after discovering the problem the house was a new build and had remained empty since built. Lucky there were no gas leaks I say!

As I didn’t have any parts with me to hook up the hob I called Transo who came by and capped the gas at the meter until I could return te next morning to sort out the issue. I added the missing elbow to the hob and connected up the gas pipe work. Just to note that whoever hooked up the hob to the electrics also put in a 13AMP fuse which should gave been a 3AMP. Also, the isolator was soldered in and whoever did that burned all of the underneath of the cabinet area and used a whole sppol of solder from the look of things!

Sloppy workmanship, incomplete and dangerous work, improper materials and I guarantee that no one ever tested the hob ’cause it wouldn’t have worked.

How could they have issued a CORGI Certificate?

What could have happened? Read this!

New regulations for gas cookers and hobs

admin — Tue, 01 Jan 2008 12:00:45 +0000

From 1st January 2008 customers who live in a multi-dwelling building, such as a flat, must have Flame Supervision Devices attached to all hob burners. Only gas cooking appliances fitted with flame supervision devices to the hob may be installed in these types of dwelling from 1st January 2008. If you live in a flat and buy a gas appliance without FSDs fitted to the hob burners you will find that CORGI registered engineers will not fit the appliance in your property.

The new guidelines apply to all domestic properties, but not properties which are used for commercial purposes only. Detached, semi-detached, terraced houses and houses with loft conversions are not covered by the document, although customers living in this type of property may choose to buy a gas appliance with FSDs for their additional safety.

What is a Flame Supervision Device?

Flame Supervision Devices (FSDs) shut off the fuel supply to a gas hob to prevent accumulations of gas should the flame go out for whatever reason. Preventing accumulations of gas is important for safety as there are many possible sources of ignition in any kitchen and this could lead to an explosion or a fire. FSDs therefore make gas hob burners safer as they detect there is no flame and automatically switch off the gas. Flame Supervision Devices may also be known as Flame Safety Devices or Flame Failure Devices.

Replace faulty cooker with new range cooker

Landlord Gas Safety Certificate (CP12) – M1

admin — Sun, 28 Oct 2007 11:54:11 +0000

The main task in a Landlord Gas Safety Check is to make sure that the property is safe to live in. If it’s safe then a certificate will be issued, if it’s not safe then either the situation will have to be rectified and/or the gas or appliance disconnected or shut off. The procedure is roughly as follows:

arrive at property
immediately start looking at flue locations and how high or how close to an opening door, widow or air brick, etc
visual on chimneys and brick work and type of terminals
location of outside gas meter
enter property and ascertain what gas appliances are installed and then have a look to make sure they are switched off and that pilots are extinguished
locate the gas meter and undertake a soundness check (to make sure gas is not leaking into the property from the main gas valve and make sure gas isn’t leaking inside the property from the pipe work), check that the gas pipe is earthed to the house electrics, make sure that pipe work is labelled GAS and check that the Meter Control Valve is labelled correctly so that the home owner/renter knows which way to turn the gas valve off in the event of emergency
if all is safe then it’s time to check each appliance and I always start with cookers
check the cooker or hob to make sure that the rings are working properly and that the flame picture (the look of the flame) is correct (blue flame with sharp crisp edges and not orange), if there is a cooker and a grill the same test is completed, all safety devices are also checked (if installed) to make sure that the gas is shut off automatically in the event of flame failure, also all controls are checked to make sure that they are working properly, gas hoses and/or gas isolation valves are visually checked for correct location, wear or damage to hoses, etc
the boiler is my next visit. I do a visual on the pipe work, looking for things like earthing straps, correct fitting of pipe work, I also look for signs of leakage around the boiler, correct fitting of condensate pipe work and pressure relief valve pipe work, the flue connection and the make sure that the boiler is secure (really, I’ve seen a couple of boilers that were being held up by the pipe work only!) (and I’ve also seen a flue that had no brick work around it, just a big hole in the wall with a bit of fibreglass insulation stuffed around it!), fire up the boiler and see how much gas it’s burning and compare it to the manufacturers specifications, check the gas pressure at the appliance and check to make sure the safety device(s) are working correctly
PLEASE NOTE – gas fire checks. Gas fire checks should also include a flue flow test whereby a smoke capsule is inserted into the flue and then the property is checked for signs that smoke has leaked through the brickwork due to bad mortar or cracked bricks. The entire length of the flue must be checked from bottom to top and yes that means up in the loft too and also outside to see that smoke is coming from the terminal only and not around the brickwork

the gas fire then needs to be removed and the flue plate removed in order to physically and visually check the inside of the flue (I have found one fire that still had an old flue damper installed and was not wedged open – it could have popped close at any time causing certain death to the home owner!). If the catchment space behind the fire is clean and the flue is in good condition then the flue plate can be re-sealed and the fire re-installed. Now the fire needs to be checked to make sure that the fire is burning correctly (visual checks for flame picture and a smoke match is lit to visually see that the flue is working correctly and that no smoke is entering back into the room) (this test is done with all doors and windows closed and any fans on and running and if the fan is reversible the test needs to be done again with the fan running in reverse), safety device is tested next.

the average property takes from 30-45 minutes to complete – maybe longer depending on the type of gas fire

if all of the above tests pass then a certificate will be issued with my signature on it stating that the property is safe

if any of the tests fail then depending on what failed and what reason the result could be to disable the appliance or it could be as major as replacing the faulty appliance

So consider for a moment the gas engineer who runs through a property in as little as fifteen minutes…

… to test a boiler, cooker and a gas fire. I know of two properties where the CORGI Registered engineer didn’t undertake a flue flow or spillage test for the gas fires and one site where the engineer didn’t even look at the gas meter!

DON’T play Russian roulette with the lives of your tenants. If someone is killed because you didn’t check properly you will have BIG problems. Get the checks done and ask questions about exactly what was tested.

No related posts.

Landlord Gas Safety Certificates (CP12) – Easy Money!!!

admin — Wed, 24 Oct 2007 18:18:30 +0000

I wanted to make a public comment on something one of my suppliers threw at me earlier this week. I was commenting that over the last couple of weeks I’ve had been undertaking a lot more Landlord Gas Safety Certificates than usual. My suppplier said ‘that’s great! It’s easy money, isnt it?’ My comment wasn’t really what he expected.

First things first, gas safety certificates are not easy money. Unless of course you think robbing banks is easy money. Let me explain what I mean. The main task in a landlord safety check is to make sure that the property is safe to live in. If it’s safe then a certificate will be issued, if it’s not safe the either the situation will be rectified and/or the gas or an appliance may be shut off. If the proper checks are undertaken the following scenario (in laymens terms) should be as follows:

arrive at the property
immediatly start looking at flue locations and how high or how close to an opening door, widow or air brick, etc
visual on chimneys and brick workand type of terminals
location of outside gas meter
knock on door and ask what gas appliances are in the property and then have a look to make sure they are all off, isolated and that pilots are extinguised
locate the gas meter and undertake a soundness check (to make sure gas is not leaking into the property from the main gas valve and then test to make sure gas isn’t leaking into the property from the pipe work), check that the gas pipe is earthed to the house electrics, make sure that pipe work is labled GAS and check that the Meter Control Valve is labled correctly so that the home owner/renter can turn the gas off in the event of emergency
if all is safe then it’s time to check each appliance and I always start with cookers
check the cooker or hob to make sure that the rings are working properly and that the flame picture (the look of the flame) is correct (blue flame with sharp crisp edges and not orange), if there is a cooker and a grill the same test is completed, all safety devices are also checked (if installed) to make sure that the gas is shut off automatically in the event of flame failure, also all controls are checked to make sure that they are working properly, gas hoses and/or gas isolation valves are visually checked for correct location, wear or damage to hoses, ect
the boiler is my next visit. I do a visual on the pipe work, looking for things like earthing staps, correct fitting of pipe work, I also look for signs of leakage around the boiler, correct fitting of condensate pipe work and pressure releif valve pipe work, the flue connection and the make sure that the boiler is secure (really, I’ve seen a couple of boilers that were being held up by the pipe work only!) (and I’ve also seen a flue that had no brick work around it, just a big ole in the wall with a bit of fibreglass insulation stuffed around it!), fire up the boiler and see how much gas it’s burining and compare it to the manufacturers specifictions, check the gas pressure at the appliance and check to make sure the safety device(s) are working correctly
now the tricky bit – gas fires. Gas fire checks should also include a flue flow test wherby a smoke capsule is inserted into the flue and then the property is checked for signs that smoke has leaked through the brickwork due to bad mortar or cracked bricks. The entire length of the flue should be checked from bottom to top and yes that means up in the loft too and also outside to see that smoke is coming from the terminal only and not around the brickwork
The gas fire then needs to be removed and the flue plate removed in order to physically and visually check the inside of the flue (I have found one fire that still had an old flue damper installed and was not wedged open – it could haave popped close at any time causing certain death to the home owner!). If the catchment space behind the fire is clean and the flue is in good condition then the flue plate can be re-sealed and the fire re-installed. Now the fire needs to be checked to make sure that the fire is burning correctly (visual checks for flame picture and a smoke match is lit to visually see that the flue is working correctly and that no smoke is entering back into the room) (this test is done with all doors and windows closed and any fans on and running and if the fan is reversable the test needs to be done again with the fan running in reverse), safety device is tested next.
the average property takes from 30-45 minutes to complete – maybe longer if there are several gas fires
if all of the above tests pass then a certificate will be issued with my signature on it stating that the property is safe
if any of the tests fail then depending on what failed and what reason the result could be to disable the appliance or it could be as major as turning off the gas to the property
Easy Money! Not really. Consider the gas engineers who run through a property in as little as fifteen minutes to test a boiler, cooker and two gas fires (I know of two properties that the CORGI Reg engineer didn’t udertake flure flow or spllage test in gas fires and one test where the engineer didn’t even look at the gas meter!)

So as I said earlier you can fake a landlord report or rob a bank for easy money. The result is exatly the same. If all goes well and no one gets hurt you can skio steps in the landlord check and make a few quid quickly or you can rob a bank and make a few quid quickly. If all goes bad however and someone gets killed because you didn’t notice a dead bird blocking the flue or you accidently kill someone during your robbery your life is going to change drastically.

If you cheat on the gas safety checks then you really are playing Russian Roulette with the not only the tenants life but yours too. If you someone is killed because you didn’t check properly you will have BIG problems. Oh, and while I’m on the sbuject, all you landlords who figure that the cheapest gas engineer is the best – you’ll be going to court too as the property and the safety of the tenants is YOUR resposabilty.

So are Landlord Gas Safety Certificates Easy Money!!! No, I don’t think they are.

No related posts.

Landlords Gas Safety Certificates (CP12) – Gas Safety Inspections

admin — Fri, 19 Oct 2007 11:38:15 +0000

[[Show as slideshow]]

arrive at property
immediately start looking at flue locations and how high or how close to an opening door, widow or air brick, etc
visual on chimneys and brick work and type of terminals
location of outside gas meter
enter property and ascertain what gas appliances are installed and then have a look to make sure they are switched off and that pilots are extinguished
locate the gas meter and undertake a soundness check (to make sure gas is not leaking into the property from the main gas valve and make sure gas isn’t leaking inside the property from the pipe work), check that the gas pipe is earthed to the house electrics, make sure that pipe work is labelled GAS and check that the Meter Control Valve is labelled correctly so that the home owner/renter knows which way to turn the gas valve off in the event of emergency
if all is safe then it’s time to check each appliance and I always start with cookers
check the cooker or hob to make sure that the rings are working properly and that the flame picture (the look of the flame) is correct (blue flame with sharp crisp edges and not orange), if there is a cooker and a grill the same test is completed, all safety devices are also checked (if installed) to make sure that the gas is shut off automatically in the event of flame failure, also all controls are checked to make sure that they are working properly, gas hoses and/or gas isolation valves are visually checked for correct location, wear or damage to hoses, etc
the boiler is my next visit. I do a visual on the pipe work, looking for things like earthing straps, correct fitting of pipe work, I also look for signs of leakage around the boiler, correct fitting of condensate pipe work and pressure relief valve pipe work, the flue connection and the make sure that the boiler is secure (really, I’ve seen a couple of boilers that were being held up by the pipe work only!) (and I’ve also seen a flue that had no brick work around it, just a big hole in the wall with a bit of fibreglass insulation stuffed around it!), fire up the boiler and see how much gas it’s burning and compare it to the manufacturers specifications, check the gas pressure at the appliance and check to make sure the safety device(s) are working correctly
PLEASE NOTE – gas fire checks. Gas fire checks should also include a flue flow test whereby a smoke capsule is inserted into the flue and then the property is checked for signs that smoke has leaked through the brickwork due to bad mortar or cracked bricks. The entire length of the flue must be checked from bottom to top and yes that means up in the loft too and also outside to see that smoke is coming from the terminal only and not around the brickwork
the gas fire then needs to be removed and the flue plate removed in order to physically and visually check the inside of the flue (I have found one fire that still had an old flue damper installed and was not wedged open – it could have popped close at any time causing certain death to the home owner!). If the catchment space behind the fire is clean and the flue is in good condition then the flue plate can be re-sealed and the fire re-installed. Now the fire needs to be checked to make sure that the fire is burning correctly (visual checks for flame picture and a smoke match is lit to visually see that the flue is working correctly and that no smoke is entering back into the room) (this test is done with all doors and windows closed and any fans on and running and if the fan is reversible the test needs to be done again with the fan running in reverse), safety device is tested next.
the average property takes from 30-45 minutes to complete – maybe longer depending on the type of gas fire
if all of the above tests pass then a certificate will be issued with my signature on it stating that the property is safe
if any of the tests fail then depending on what failed and what reason the result could be to disable the appliance or it could be as major as replacing the faulty appliance

So consider for a moment the gas engineer who runs through a property in as little as fifteen minutes…

No related posts.

Landlord Gas Safety Certificates (CP12) – M8

admin — Thu, 18 Oct 2007 18:50:58 +0000

We carry out Landlord Gas Safety Checks throughout Lancs. We take these very seriously and do our checks by the book. Why? Because tenants lives depend on it! We test all gas appliances, test the gas pipework for leaks, we smoke test every flue and test all gas fires to make sure that the products of combustion (CO – Carbon Monoxide) are being removed correctly. During our tests we also check boilers to make sure that seals are in good shape, flues are in the correct location and not plugged up, we check the gas pressure at the appliances and all cookers and hobs are also checked to make sure that safety devices are properly functioning and that the flame picture (the look of the flame) is correct.

There is a lot to check in before we issue a Gas Safety Certificate but rest assured. If we issue one, the tenant is safe.

No related posts.

Landlord Gas Safety Certificate – CP12

admin — Thu, 23 Aug 2007 17:57:45 +0000

arrive at property
immediately start looking at flue locations and how high or how close to an opening door, widow or air brick, etc
visual on chimneys and brick work and type of terminals
location of outside gas meter
enter property and ascertain what gas appliances are installed and then have a look to make sure they are switched off and that pilots are extinguished
locate the gas meter and undertake a soundness check (to make sure gas is not leaking into the property from the main gas valve and make sure gas isn’t leaking inside the property from the pipe work), check that the gas pipe is earthed to the house electrics, make sure that pipe work is labelled GAS and check that the Meter Control Valve is labelled correctly so that the home owner/renter knows which way to turn the gas valve off in the event of emergency
if all is safe then it’s time to check each appliance and I always start with cookers
check the cooker or hob to make sure that the rings are working properly and that the flame picture (the look of the flame) is correct (blue flame with sharp crisp edges and not orange), if there is a cooker and a grill the same test is completed, all safety devices are also checked (if installed) to make sure that the gas is shut off automatically in the event of flame failure, also all controls are checked to make sure that they are working properly, gas hoses and/or gas isolation valves are visually checked for correct location, wear or damage to hoses, etc
the boiler is my next visit. I do a visual on the pipe work, looking for things like earthing straps, correct fitting of pipe work, I also look for signs of leakage around the boiler, correct fitting of condensate pipe work and pressure relief valve pipe work, the flue connection and the make sure that the boiler is secure (really, I’ve seen a couple of boilers that were being held up by the pipe work only!) (and I’ve also seen a flue that had no brick work around it, just a big hole in the wall with a bit of fibreglass insulation stuffed around it!), fire up the boiler and see how much gas it’s burning and compare it to the manufacturers specifications, check the gas pressure at the appliance and check to make sure the safety device(s) are working correctly
PLEASE NOTE – gas fire checks. Gas fire checks should also include a flue flow test whereby a smoke capsule is inserted into the flue and then the property is checked for signs that smoke has leaked through the brickwork due to bad mortar or cracked bricks. The entire length of the flue must be checked from bottom to top and yes that means up in the loft too and also outside to see that smoke is coming from the terminal only and not around the brickwork

the gas fire then needs to be removed and the flue plate removed in order to physically and visually check the inside of the flue (I have found one fire that still had an old flue damper installed and was not wedged open – it could have popped close at any time causing certain death to the home owner!). If the catchment space behind the fire is clean and the flue is in good condition then the flue plate can be re-sealed and the fire re-installed. Now the fire needs to be checked to make sure that the fire is burning correctly (visual checks for flame picture and a smoke match is lit to visually see that the flue is working correctly and that no smoke is entering back into the room) (this test is done with all doors and windows closed and any fans on and running and if the fan is reversible the test needs to be done again with the fan running in reverse), safety device is tested next.
the average property takes from 30-45 minutes to complete – maybe longer depending on the type of gas fire
if all of the above tests pass then a certificate will be issued with my signature on it stating that the property is safe
if any of the tests fail then depending on what failed and what reason the result could be to disable the appliance or it could be as major as replacing the faulty appliance

So consider for a moment the gas engineer who runs through a property in as little as fifteen minutes…

… to test a boiler, cooker and a gas fire. I know of two properties where the Gas Safe Registered engineer didn’t undertake a flue flow or spillage test for the gas fires and one site where the engineer didn’t even look at the gas meter!

No related posts.

Advantis Home Maintenance Ltd. t/a AppliancesFitQuick » CP12

Carpet Fitter Creates Gas Chamber

DANGER OF THE WEEK AWARD

Bad Carpet Fitters

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This Flue Could Cause Death

DANGER OF THE WEEK AWARD

Bad – Boiler Installers

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Improper Flue Termination

DANGER OF THE WEEK AWARD

Bad Gas Fitters

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Danger of the Week Award – Cowboy Gas Fitter

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New regulations for gas cookers and hobs

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Landlord Gas Safety Certificate (CP12) – M1

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Landlord Gas Safety Certificates (CP12) – Easy Money!!!

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Landlords Gas Safety Certificates (CP12) – Gas Safety Inspections

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Landlord Gas Safety Certificates (CP12) – M8

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Landlord Gas Safety Certificate – CP12

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